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OUR   ARTIST    IN    CUBA. 


ICARLETON 


OUR 

ARTIST  IN     CUBA. 

FIFTY    DRAWINGS    ON    WOOD. 


LEAVES    FROM 

THE  SKETCH-BOOK  OF  A  TRAVELER, 
During  the  Winter  of  1864-5. 

BY 

GEO.  W.  CARLETON. 


M£ 


NEW  YORK: 
Car  let  on,  Publisher.  413  Broadway. 

London :     S.  Low,  Son  &*  Co. 
MDCLXV. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1865,  by 

GEO.  W.  CARLETON, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office   of  the   District   Court  of  the  United 

States  for  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


CONTENTS. 


A  Preliminary  Word. 

No. 

Sick  Transit      -  i 

Two  Boobies    -        - -     2 

A  Colored  Hercules        ------         3 

The  Cuban  Jehu    --------    4 

Iglesia  de  San  Francisco 5 

A  Cuban  Motive    -        -        - 6 

An  Influenza 7 

Flee  for  Shelter 8 

The  Ride     ----- 9 

A  Cock-fight 10 

Rather  Cool       -        -        -        -        -        -        -        -        n 

A  Spanish  Retreat       -  12 

Take  your  Pick  -        -        -        -        -        -        -        13 

Spiders,  Rats,  and  Cockroaches       -        -        -        -  14 

Belligerents 15 

Materfamilias  et  Filius    -        -        -        -     '  -        -  16 
A  Culinary  Department         -----        I7 

A  Bundle  of  Clothes  - 18 

A  Button-Smasher    -        - 19 

White  Pantaloons        -        -        -        -        -        -        -  20 

A  Carnival  Acquaintance 21 

Beauty  at  the  Ball 22 

A  Disappointment 23 

Dolce  far  Niente 24 


VI  CONTEXTS. 

No. 

Locomotion 25 

The  Spanish  Tongue     -        -        -        -        -        -        -26 

An  Unwelcome  Visitor 27 

An  Agreeable  Bath 28 

A  Celestial  Maid 29 

A  Statue  on  a  Bust 30 

A  Tail  Unfolded 31 

Put  Money  in  thy  Purse    -        -        -        -        -        -  32 

Sugar  and  Water     -------       33 

Green  Fields  and  Pastures  New     -        -        -        -  34 

A  Segar  well-lighted     ------        35 

Where  Shall  Rest  be  Found    -        -        -        -        -  36 

All  Aboard         -        -        -        -        -        -        -  37 

The  Matanzas  Cave -        -  38 

A  Hard  Road  to  Travel        -----       39 

A  Shady  Retreat  -------  40 

A  Spanish  Grocer      -        -        -        -        -        -  41 

Colored  Help         --------  42 

Very  Moorish     -        - 43 

Chacun  a  Son  Gour       -        -        -        -        -        -        -  44 

Nature's  Sweet  Restorer 45 

Agricultural  -        - -  46 

A  Cot  in  the  Valley      - 47 

A  Colored  Beauty         -        -        -        -  -        -  48 

Corner  Stones  -        -        -        -        -        -        -       49 

A  Sudden  Departure  50 


A  PRELIMINARY  WORD. 


With  many  misgivings,  the  author  of  this 
little  brochure  has  been  persuaded  to  give 
the  prominence  of  publication  to  a  mere 
pocket-book  collection  of  way-side  pen-and- 
ink  sketches,  the  chance  results  of  idle  mo- 
ments, sandwiched  with  such  Cuban  events 
as  paring  oranges  and  sipping  from  their 
cups  of  nectar — tearing  through  the  narrow 
streets  of  Havana  in  ragged  volantes — list- 
ening in  the  soft  moonlight,  and  arm-in-arm 
with  Cuban  sefioritas,  to  the  Artillery  band 
in  the  Plaza  des  Armas — assisting  with  dom- 
ino and  false  nose  at  the  masquerades  in 
the  Tacon  Theatre  —  lounging  with  ices  or 
delicious  chocolate  at  the  Cafe  Dominica  — 
dallying  with  cigar  and  fragrant  coffee,  after 
the  regulation  breakfast  of  codfish,  garlic, 
and  onions  —  snuffing  up  the   perfumed   air, 


Vlll  A   PRELIMINARY    WORD. 

and  strolling  through  the  golden  orange- 
groves  of  Cafetals  — joining  in  the  battle, 
murder,  and  sudden  death  of  Marinao  cock- 
fights—  vagabondizing  along  the  shady  side 
of  Calle  Obispo — and  so  forth,  through  all 
the  dolce  far  nientes  of  a  stranger's  drift- 
ing life,  among  the  lights  and  shadows  of 
the    Antilles'   Queen. 

The  only  merit  the  pictures  possess, 
perhaps,  is  their  faithfulness  to  nature. 
Though  chiefly  caricatures,  they  represent 
such  incidents  and  scenes  as  every  one, 
with  both  eyes  open,  sees,  who  visits  Cuba  ; 
and  being  sketched  upon  the  spot,  with  all 
the  "crispy  freshness  of  a  first  impression, 
they  possess  a  sort  of  photographic  value, 
that,  in  spite  of  their  grotesqueness,  may 
prove  more  lasting  than  the  entertainment 
which  their   humor   offers. 

New  York,   April,   1865. 


THE  START.— THE  STEAMSHIP  COLUMBIA. 
AT  SEA. 


First  day  out.— The  wind  freshens  up  a  trifle  as  we 
get  outside  Sandy  Hook;  but  our  artist  says  he 
is  'nt  sea-sick,  for  he  never  felt  better  in  his  life. 


. 


IN  THE  GULF  OF  MEXICO. 


A  "  Booby  " — as  sezx\fro?n  the  ship's  deck. 


A  Booby— as  seen  on  the  ship's  deck. 


ARRIVAL  AT  HAVANA. 


A  side  elevation  of  the  colored  gentleman  who  carried 
our  luggage  from  the  small  boat  to  the  Custom  House. 


VIEW  FROM  OUR  WINDOW  AT  THE 
HOTEL  ALMY. 


The  old  Convent  and  Bell  Tower  of  the  Church 
of  San  Francisco, — now  used  as  a  Custom  House. 


AT  THE  CAFE  LOUVRE. 


Manners  rnd  Customs  of  a  Cuban  with, 
a  Cold  in  his  Head. 


THE  [WICKED]  FLEA  OF  HAVANA. 


Part  I. — The  beast  in  a  torpid  condition. 

Part  II. — When    he    "  smells  the   blood   of  an 
Englishmun." 


A  COCK-FIGHT  IN  CUBA. 


[. — Chanticleer  as  he  goes 


II- — Chanticleer  considerably  "played  oat. 


STREETS  OF  HAVANA.— CALLE  LAMPARILLA. 


The  cool  and  airy  style  in  which  they  dress 
the  rising  colored  generation  of  Havana. 


\ 


THE   CAPTAIN    GENERAL'S   QUINTA. 


View  of  the  Canal  and  Cocoa  Tree  ;  looking  East 
from  the  Grotto. 


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STREETS  OF  HAVANA.— CALLE  COMPOSTELLA. 


The  Free  Negro. — An  everyTC.v.'  $C£.r.e.  when 
lire  weather  is  f~e. 


AN  INTERIOR  IN  HAVANA. 


Kitchen,  chief-cook  and  bottle-washer  in  the 
establishment  of  Mrs.  Franke,  out  on  the 
"Cerro." 


hiais  >-_i  :hi  ?i:?lz 


A  portrait  of  die  young  lady,  •whose  family  (afto 
sadgralb3e  amgpig)  mMr**""^  to  take  in  our  washing. 


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A  MASK  BALL  AT  THE  TACON. 


Our  artist   mixes   in   the   giddy  dance,    and  falls 
desperately  in  love  with  this  sweet  creature but 


LATER  IN  THE  EVENING, 


When  the  "sweei  creature"  unmasks,  our  Artist 
suddenly  recovers  from  his  fit  of  admiration.  Alas ! 
beauty  is  but  mask  deep. 


23 


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hotels  in  Havana. 


A  cheerful  Chinese  Chambermaid  (?)  at  the 
Fonda  de  Ingleterra,  outside  the  walls. 


HIGH    ART   IN   HAVANA. 


\ 


A  gay  (but  slightly  mutilated)  old  plaster-of- 
Paris  girl,  that  I  found  in  one  of  the  avenues 
of  the  Bishop's  f^"-J;-n,  on  the  "Cerro." 


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PUBLIC   SERVANTS   IN   CUBA. 


A  gay  and  festive  Chinese  brakeman,  on  the 
railroad  near  Guines.  —The  shirt-collar-and-pair- 
of-spurs  style  of  costume. 


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ARCHITECTURE    IN    MATANZAS. 


A  romantic  little  tienda  mista  (grocer}'  store)  on 
a  corner,  in  the  Calle  Ona. 


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PLANTATIONS  NEAR  MARIANAS 


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A  Colored  Beauty  toting  Sugar  Cane  from  the 
field  to  the  grinding  mill. 


48 


ARCHITECTURE  IN  HAVANA. 


A  conglomerate  Esquiria,  on  the  comer  of  Calk 
Obispo  and  Monserate. 


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